A Simple Guide to Kaua’i
It may be chilly in LA this December, but the memory of Kaua’i’s emerald coastlines and dreamy beaches is keeping me warm inside. I’ll admit, I’ve been low-key hibernating since returning to the city a week and a half ago—partially in denial, partially in protest. Having been to Maui previously, I know that Hawai’i is a place that forever beckons you back like the call of the ocean inside of a conch shell.
For anyone curious about traveling there, I’ve written a short starter guide to give you a lay of the land... and an excuse to finally book your flight!
Kaua’i is known as the Garden Island. Lush, mysterious, and wild, it’s the oldest island in the Hawaiian chain and is said to be the westernmost point of the Western World. It’s typically broken up into four sections—north, east, south, and west—each with a distinct landscape and vibe. There’s one main road that circles the island, with the exception of the Nã Pali coastline along the northwest. So, if you’re traveling from the north to the west, you’ll have to go the long way around, which takes about 2 hours. It’s a fun, scenic drive, of course, with lots of interesting potential stops along the way.
My friends and I rented a Jeep, which was ideal for cruising around in, especially when we off-roaded to Polihale Beach. (More about that below!) Kaua’i is an outdoor lover’s paradise, so bring water-friendly hiking shoes, durable swimwear, sun protection, and light, breathable clothing that can get dirty.
Some of the most stunning views make you work for them, so be prepared for the adventure.
An unusual storm front swept through a few days before we arrived, so some of the hiking trails were too dangerous to attempt. The route to Sealodge Beach, for example, was too steep and slippery to complete. And, while we didn’t have time to visit Queen’s Bath, we heard that the trail there presented quite the hazard, as well. The rainy season lasts from November to March, but it’s a tropical-style rain that usually passes through pretty quickly. They say if the weather is bad on one side of the island, drive to another and you’re likely to find some sun.
We stayed on the north shore in an Airbnb condo in Princeville. It was quiet and peaceful and just what we needed to collapse into at the end of our long days of exploring. I’d be curious to stay in the old surfing town of Hanalei or in Kapa’a on the east side next time, I think. Those areas are bursting with charm, and the locals are so friendly. We were actually offered multiple jobs in Hanalei, making it extra hard to leave!
The North Side of the island is the lushest and greenest because it gets the most rain. It’s home to Hā’ena State Park, which houses the glorious Nā Pali coast and the 11-mile Kalalau trail. We hiked four miles of this trail to the icy Hanakāpī’ai Falls and four miles back, passing the lovely Hanakāpī’ai Beach along the way. The journey was moderately hard and it took us most of the day, but it was one of the most rewarding experiences of my life.
We celebrated with Tahiti Nui’s legendary mai tais in Hanalei that night, which I am still dreaming about. The north side’s night life ends early, by the way, around 10pm.
I think my secret favorite part of the trip was our morning snorkel along the coral reef at Anini Beach. It felt private and remote, with easy access from a quiet, tree-lined road. We spotted someone van life-ing in an old VW Westfalia there, so I knew we had discovered a great spot!
The East Side is known as the Coconut Coast because of its abundance of coconut palm trees. It’s where the airport, Līhu’e, is, as well as the town I mentioned earlier, Kapa’a, where you can buy your leis, beach hats, and Hawaiian shirts for dad. There are also some beautifully-curated boutiques that are fun to explore there. And, don’t miss the poke bowls at Pono Market! And, shave ice… all the shave ice.
The South Side is typically the most sunny and, because of that, the most touristy. The big resorts are located there, which wasn’t the vibe we were going for. But, if you’re into that sort of thing, the Grand Hyatt is very thoughtfully-designed and has free live Hawaiian music in the evenings on the main terrace.
Po’ipū Beach is a fun area to drive through but a bit crowded for our taste. We preferred the nearby Shipwreck Beach for a long day in the sun with wine and cheese and fruit. There’s also a cliff nearby that you can jump off of. It’s worth the short hike to the top for a stunning view of the coastline, whether you decide to jump or not.
The West Side is the driest and least-habited side of the island. It feels rugged, wide-open, and even a little country-western. Once you’re there, head on up to Waimea Canyon. It’s like a smaller version of the Grand Canyon but green and tropical.
From the canyon, we made our way to Polihale Beach, a 17-mile stretch of gorgeously soft sand that borders the daring Nā Pali cliffs. It’s a wild and other-worldly place that requires a 3-mile unpaved trek to get there. While our plans to watch the sunset and enjoy a cooler full of food were altered by a giant, unexpected rainstorm, the experience was one that I’ll never forget.
We made the most of our short time on Kaua’i, but I know there are so many hidden beaches and best-kept-secrets that we didn’t get the chance to see. If you’ve been, leave a comment with your favorite spots and helpful advice for future travelers.